DISCOVERING HAITIEN UNERECOMMENDEDSOCIÉTÉ

Trop riches pour être pauvres…

487

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Je viens d’un petit pays perdu dans la mer des Caraïbes, sur une terre où la normalité est anomalie et le sensé irrationalité. Chez moi, tout est anormalement spécial. Conduire dans le sens opposé au sens convenu dans une voie à sens unique n’est ni bien rare, ni si grave. Serpenter les voitures quand on circule à bord d’un deux-roues est un mode de conduite requis. Faire la course aux obstacles sur des autoroutes où se côtoient bœufs, chiens, piétons, camions et véhicules de promenade est chose commune. Se faire rembourser avec des bonbons aussi. Chez moi, chacun fait ce qui lui plaît et le service à la clientèle est plutôt particulier. Les bank bòlèt ainsi que la marchande de fritay du coin servent de GPS aux promeneurs égarés et les écoliers étudient sous l’éclairage des lampadaires de rue. On peut payer pour être aussi coincés que des sardines en VIP et attendre toute la nuit, comme monsieur Tout-le-monde, que l’artiste-interprète commence à jouer. Les transports communs sont anormalement bondés et la vie ridiculement chère. Il y a souvent des embouteillages monstres, des coupures d’eau et d’électricité et les rues abritent plein de nids de poules.

Chez moi, il y a aussi les petits plaisirs irremplaçables. La mer s’étend à perte de vue et les montagnes sont à portée de bras. Il y a le sable chaud, le soleil qui brille et les oiseaux qui chantent. On se fait bercer par les vagues et on profite des caresses du vent. Il y a aussi le parfum du café matinal et l’odeur de la pluie vespérale. Les fruits ont une saveur franche et le goût de la Prestige comme celui du Barcancourt est imbattable. Il y a la pétillance du Cola Couronne et les saveurs locales du griot et du lambi boucané. Dans mon pays, il y a des pratik et des moun pa et les gens sont ingénieux et drôlement entrepreneurs. Les camions-citernes se dandinent à longueur d’année sur les routes suivant la cadence de cantiques de Noël caducs et les téléphones prépayés se rechargent à la vitesse de l’éclair sous l’effet magique des pap-padap. Chez moi, les vibrations des tambours accompagnent les prières qui arrivent au Grand Maître et à la Vierge et les gens ont une peur bleue des esprits maléfiques. Chez moi, il y a la chaleur humaine et l’esprit d’entraide. Il y a aussi des cœurs sur la main et de la grandeur d’âme. Les gens se parlent sans se connaître et accueillent à bras ouverts sans hésiter. Il y a les sourires et les bonjou madmwazèl. Il y a maman-papamami-papi, tonton-tati, cousin-cousine, voisin-voisines.

Chez moi, il y a aussi que personne n’aime vraiment son pays. Mon île est un terrain de jeu où l’on vient s’amuser, un laboratoire où l’on expérimente librement, un lieu où l’on profite des plaisirs interdits et une mine d’or où on vient amasser des sous la semaine afin de couvrir les grosses dépenses des week-ends de folie à Miami. On vend de l’alcool aux mineurs et des enfants aux majeurs. Il n’y a pas de recours pour le commun des mortels et on s’habitue à se taire et à faire comme si. On s’envoie des pierres et on ne soigne pas les blessés. On parle trop et on ne fait pas assez. Tout le monde a toujours quelque chose à dire et on oublie de mettre la main à la pâte. On prend et on ne donne rien en retour. On vide et personne ne pense à remplir. Dans mon pays on est toujours prêt à partir : il y a des un pied à l’intérieur-un pied à l’extérieur, des deux pieds à l’extérieur-deux mains à l’intérieur et des deux pieds-deux mains à l’extérieur. Très peu sont fiers du bicolore. Tout le monde attend un passeport, court après un visa et rêve d’une carte verte.

Chez moi, personne ne croit vraiment que nous sommes trop riches pour être pauvres.

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Naïké Michel
N.@.Ï.K.{&}: Human. Being. With a story still being written....

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